323. Domaine de la Pertuisane, Domaine de la Pertuisane VdP Côtes Catalanes, 2003

£18.15 (10% off); 15%

2^nd from the Optimor Wine Club case. Initially this was disappointing, but after eating food at the same time, along with a day in the bottle, this actually became pretty satisfying. The problem was a distinct bitterness at the finish – kind of stalky or like grape pips (I wondered how much press-wine was in the blend?). Medium-deep garnet, with a medium, rosy-garnet rim. Moderately intense wood-smoky oak nose with hints of vanilla – wrapped around plum or maybe damson fruit. Initially sweet on entry, with moderate-to-low acidity. Quite full, but not flabby. Tannins a bit obvious and grippy, with that initial bitterness at the finish.