828. Finca Allende, Aurus Rioja, 1996

£80; 13.5%

The first vintage of Finca Allende’s top wine, I think? Ready to drink now. Elegant. Perhaps not completely top drawer, but certainly a level of ambition. Mid garnet, with a brick tinge to the rim. Honey and wax aromatics to opening – in fact, a Manuka honey note persists, and marks this wine. Coffee / café crème oak and oak spice. Some fresh leather, but still lots of carpentry. Dried cranberry fruit. Some savoury, earthy touches. Sweet-sour red cherry and plum. Quite bright acidity persists through the finish, beyond the fruit length. Fine, light, chalky tannins are fully mature.