810. CVNE, Viña Real Rioja Gran Reserva, 2004

£22; 13.5%

The exemplar Gran Reserva, and just that: a ripe, deep vintage giving black fruit character, with a careful coating of American oak primarily. Fine tannins too – typical of Tempranillo. Medium ruby-garnet. Ripe – almost stewed – black cherry fruit beneath that coat of waxy oak – ‘banana’, vanilla, coconut, cinnamon and mocha (some French oak too, perhaps?). On the palate, deep, ripe black cherry and bramble fruit. Smoky mid-palate, cinnamon, roast, vanilla hints and a coconut touch at the finish. Earthy mineral savouriness. Fine, very firm tannic grip, which would give this some years of life.