802. Fiorini, Becco Rosso Lambrusco Grasparossa, NV (2014)

£12.49; 11.5%

This was the enlightening surprise of the line-up – and very hard to find – but I wasn’t then surprised to see an article a few months later in the Evening Standard celebrating Lambrusco. Not the world’s greatest sparkling, but bright, fresh, balanced and appetising – good for Italian food. Deep cherry with a purple rim, carrying a persistent mousse. Nose like Lambic Kriek: red cherry, herbal notes and some meaty complexity. Bright, crisp, sour red cherry palate, with some herbal overtones. Light-medium body. Some robust tannic grip, of the Grasparossa clone.