An exploration of wine

675. d’Oliveiras, Bastardo Reserva Madeira, 1927

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Book 4 Wine 675

£300; 20%

A fabulous rarity, with just 2Ha of Bastardo (aka Trousseau) now grown on Madeira, and rarely bottled varietally. So good, in this case, that I had to seek out another bottle from old Madeira specialist, d’Oliveiras. Deep amber-brown, with tawny glints. A broad caramel rim with olive hints: clearly an aged wine! Medium+ intensity, complex nose of cocoa, coffee chocolate, walnut marzipan and clear rancio notes. With some dried prune fruit, it’s almost brandy butter. Medium-full body, crisp acidity to balance the medium level of sweetness. Full intensity, smoky, granitic minerality, volcanic rock, and smoky lemon-ginger and chocolate notes. Saline. Long. Great.

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