An exploration of wine

649. Lopez de Heredia-Viña Tondonia, Viña Bosconia Rioja Gran Reserva, 1991

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Book 4 Wine 649

£79.99; 12.5%

I wonder if this bottle – stored close enough to the wine shop’s light to be warm on purchase – might have been a poor example. 17 / 20 aromatics, but a hollow, 12 / 20 palate left an overall disappointing wine. At any price! Pale red-tawny core, with a broad, brick rim. Lovely, aged colour, but not old. Immediately, pronounced sweet red-cherry and wild strawberry. Perfumed with a touch of pot pourri. Old leather, dried leaf hints, vanilla, gentle warm spice notes, hints of cocoa powder. Complex, sweet-savoury, and elegant. On the palate, med+ acidity, but without the body, depth of flavour or length to bring it all together. Some leathery notes on lemony cherry. Medium-, ripe tannins at the finish. Ho hum.

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