An exploration of wine

612. Emilio Lustau, Emperatriz Eugenia Very Rare Oloroso Sherry, NV (2011)

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Book 4 Wine 612

£20.89; 20%

This is a bit cheeky – labelled not only Solera Gran Reserva, but also ‘rare Sherry, some of which is very old’… but it isn’t a VORS. Nevertheless, a good quality, aged Oloroso, in the walnut style, with notable freshness & acidity on the palate. Medium depth tawny core, fading through amber and olive touches, to a watery rim. Pronounced coffee-walnut cake nose, with a hint of cinnamon, cocoa powder and polished wood. Not many fruit notes. Totally dry, but rounded and full-bodied. Quite juicy acidity with lemon and orange marmalade flavours. Cocoa – warm finish with more walnut on the finish than front-palate. Good.

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