An exploration of wine

559. Château Cantenac-Brown, Margaux Grand Cru Classé, 2000

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Book 3 Wine 559

£35; 13%

I’ve taken an older Cantenac Brown label off and it was a mammoth and painful task… For the 2000 I just tore it too many times for it to be worthwhile. What is it about the Bordelais and rubbish labels? Anyway, a Christmas Day wine, to accompany venison & wild rabbit stew. And, coming into early maturity (at 10 years…!), it was a very good partner. On decanting, I could smell blackcurrant Fruit Pastilles. Once decanted, a meaty note emerged. 1½ hours later, it all came together. Medium depth and more ruby core with some garnet at the rim. Still youthful. Intensely perfumed nose of blackcurrant, but with that lifted note that perhaps is the fabled Margaux ‘violets’ perfume. Complex, with pencil lead, sawdust, touches of vanilla, cinnamon spice, and both meaty & blackcurrant still shining through. Savoury blackcurrant, cedar, oak-spice, and dried herb flavour. Still notable, ripe but chalky tannins at the finish. Balanced acidity. Long. Great. Would do very well over the next 5-8 years.

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