An exploration of wine

Anzivino: better than just a Gattinara B&B

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Anzivino Gattinara Riserva 2009 labelling

Anzivino Gattinara Riserva getting the hand-labelling treatment

Anzivino was founded in 1998 by entrepreneur Enzo Anzivino, when he acquired an old grappa distillery site. He renovated it, built a new winery and cellar, along with offices, and ultimately added a series of B&B rooms. We stayed there in 2017 for the simple expedient of needing somewhere for a night in Gattinara, and it being a winery!

Anzivino owns one Nebbiolo vineyard and all their top wines are DOCG Gattinara. Syrah is also bought in from Sicily to make an easy-drinking Vino da Tavola. The top wines are fermented in their truncated oak vat, while the other, early-drinking wines are fermented in stainless steel.

Anzivino Inox vat

Early-drinking wines are stainless-steel vinified, with top wines in the tronconic oak vat on the right

The Gattinara is aged in large botti for 3 years, with a Riserva in good vintages, aged for 4 years. Older barriques and tonneaux are used for other wines. The Gattinara wines spend a minimum of a year in bottle, but they label to order, so may be held longer, depending on demand.

We saw a fair amount of older wines kicking around, meaning ex-cellar, matured Nebbiolos are available – like the Anzivino Gattinara Riserva 2009 that was the best we tasted, and just €22 a bottle, as well as their straight Anzivino Gattinara 2010, which was pretty good too. I bought a bottle of the Riserva, which drank very well the following year.

Anzivino Nebbiolo appassimento Falicato

Drying Nebbiolo for Anzivino’s Amarone-style Falicato

Anzivino also experiment. In particular, they select some Nebbiolo fruit to put aside to dry in the winery for 60 days, making an Amarone-style dry wine in December, which must be labelled as a Nebbiolo DOC. With some Erbaluce that they make in a non-sulfited style as well as conventionally, plus some vines in Bramattera, their full range is:

  • Gattinara Riserva
  • Gattinara
  • Costa della Sesia
  • Bramaterra
  • Nebbiolo entry-level
  • Nemesi Rosé (70% Nebbiolo)
  • Nebbiolo-Syrah Vino da Tavola
  • Erbaluce with a small Chardonnay component
  • Falicato Nebbiolo DOC – their dried fruit wine

 

They were in process of developing a no-SO2 Nebbiolo, and in general only use SO2 during winemaking – driven partly by popularity in the Danish market. The Maulet Erbaluce 2016 was interesting rather than good, and not really to my tastes, but was at least complex.

 

Wines

Anzivino Erbaluce Maulet No Sulfites 2016 (15 / 20)
Green bottle. No SO2 at any stage in winemaking.
A: Deep gold, with slight spritz and slight cloudiness
N: Wild, hay, chamomile, dried fruit. Some funky, cidery notes
P: Salty, savoury & green apples. A bit cidery. Herbal – dried grass. Stony mineral. Some spice. Savoury

Anzivino Nemesi Rosé 2015 VdT (15.5+ / 20)
70% Nebbiolo, with Croatina, Vespolina and Verara.
A: Vibrant salmon-onion – mid-deep
N: Reductive. Spice, herb, nut. Strawberry fruit beneath
P: Rich strawberry-citrus. Slightly chalky. Very fresh. Clean. Gentle spice. Some toast. Light tannic grip. A bit more than medium length

Anzivino Gattinara 2010 (16.5 / 20)
A: Pale garnet, with a broad brick rim
N: Dried rose petals, balsamic and dark chocolate touches. Harmonious floral & dried, mixed red fruit. Some flinty mineral. Dense, but perfumed
P: Savoury, slightly bitter, smoky. Dried fruit. Masculine. Firmer, resolving tannins. Medium-long to long

Anzivino Falicato Nebbiolo DOC 2010 (17+ / 20)
Nebbiolo dried for 2 months.
A: PMG; medium brick rim
N: Dried & oxidative black fruit. Balsamic and meat extract tones. Burly. Black tea. Touches of dried rose & hay on swirling
P: M bodied, dried cherry. Spice, tar, smoke. Firm to high, chalky tannins. Long. Needs time

Anzivino Gattinara Riserva 2009 (17.5 / 20)
A: Mid-deep garnet-brick
N: Hugely aromatic dried rose petals. Pot pourri. Spice-chilli emerges, with toasty notes
P: Rose-scented. Sweet, rich, dried fruits. Dense. Rich. Crisp acidity. Powerful. Firm but fine tannins. Long & scented. Firm. Manly

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