An exploration of wine

Big Fortified Tasting: go hard or go home

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BFT catalogue cover shot

The full, fat catalogue for the BFT

On 9th May 2018, I went to my first edition of the fabled trade tasting, the Big Fortified Tasting. The clue is in the name. And it is indeed big, with somewhere north of 300 wines to taste, plus masterclasses for those fortunate enough to get places. One has to gird ones loins and get on with it. Though one must also be selective, so there was plenty I didn’t cover.

Though vins doux naturels style wines like Banyuls, Maury et al were generally not represented, this can be considered a festival of great Sherries, Madeiras and Ports, with a fair slug of Aussie fortified ‘stickies’ to boot.

I tried many, with an emphasis on Sherry. As I had found judging Sherry in the first week of Decanter World Wine Awards, just 6 days earlier, the overall standard of these wines is high. Moreover, the VORS (and VOS) quality designations for the brown styles are genuine markers for quality. This was particularly clear with Bodegas Tradición’s focus on VORS, and Fernando de Castilla’s VOS-equivalent Antique range showed well as ever.

Also, it was a pleasure to taste Delgado Zuleta’s resurrected very old Palo Cortado and Hidalgo-La Gitana’s 15 year-old Aniversario bottling shone. Finally, the non-descript name, Viniberia belies a series of almacenista bottlings that reached some sublime heights – a pleasure to reacquaint myself.

There was plenty to celebrate in Madeira, including a first taste of Henriques and Henriques’ 20 year old Verdelho, which shared the elegance of their 20 year old Malvasia and Terrantez wines, previously drunk.

In Port, as well as with a further sampling of Kopke’s excellent aged whites and tawnies, Liz Gabay MW pointed out Quinta do Mourão, who I had not encountered before. Their 50 and 90-year old White Ports were an experience. The 50 year old was the wine of the BFT, for me.

I thought Warre’s new vintage-dated Otima 2006 tawny was good value for money, while tasting a barrel sample of a special blend of 1950s / 60s / 70s / 80s / 90s tawnies to celebrate the 102nd anniversary of Porto Barros promises much when it is finally released. I’ve enjoyed several vintages of Quinta dos Malvedos, and the 2005 Vintage Port is a very fine effort.

Finally, it was intriguing to taste a range of Aussie fortifieds, especially to compare Topaque with Muscat, and across the quality hierarchy there. Hugely sweet, and some very satisfying indeed.

My somewhat rough tasting notes and scores are in order of categories tasted, then in booklet order, rather than the order either of producers or of wines that I actually tasted in.

Jump to:

  • Sherry: mostly dry sherries
  • Madeira: full range of styles
  • Port: including several old White Ports
  • Australian: comparative range of Topaques and Muscats, inter alia

 

Sherry

 

Barbadillo

Barbadillo Manzanilla ‘Solear’ NV (15.5 / 20)
Is the same as the straight Manzanilla sold in Oddbins, but just a year or two older.
A: Pale gold
N: Creamy, yeasty, more broadly nutty and aldehydic
P: Nutty-salty

Barbadillo Manzanilla Pasada En Rama ‘Pastora’ NV (16 / 20)
Solear, but a few years older again.
A: Mid-deep gold
N: Hay, dried apple, camomile, toasted almond
P: Mellow nuttiness. Long

Barbadillo Amontillado ‘Principe’ NV (17 / 20)
12 year old.
A: Pale-medium amber
N: Fudgy hazelnut. Some hard cheese. Smoky, toasty oak
P: Rich, toasty-nutty entry, then spicy, salty mid-palate

Barbadillo Palo Cortado ‘Obispo Gascon’ NV (17.5 / 20)
15 year old.
A: Pale-medium amber
N: Walnut, wood-polish and spice
P: Spicy, explosive sweet-savoury hazelnut, spice and salt

Barbadillo Oloroso ‘Cuco’ NV (16.5 / 20)
12 year old.
A: Medium amber
N: Toasted walnuts, some black tea, raisin, chocolate
P: Black treacle tones. Smoky walnut, spice, and a long, chocolate finish

Barbadillo Oloroso ‘San Rafael’ NV (16 / 20)
A: Medium amber
N: Sweet, raisined nose, with chocolate and nut
P: Medium-sweet, chocolate, raisin and nut

 

Bodegas Tradición

Bodegas Tradición Fino Viejo En Rama NV (17.5 / 20)
12 years old. They do not bottle a young Fino.
A: Deep, burnished gold
N: Dried camomile, toasted almonds. Smoky-flinty
P: Dried apple peel, dried green olive, toasted nuts. Very long

Bodegas Tradición Amontillado VORS NV (18.5 / 20)
A: Mid amber, with an olive rim tinge
N: Creamy hazelnut, cakebread spice and hard cheese tones
P: Huge power of toasted hazelnut, salt, wood polish and hard cheese complexity. Exceptional length

Bodegas Tradición Oloroso VORS NV (18 / 20)
A: Mid amber
N: Fudgy mahogany and walnut. Complex cakebread
P: Powerful, but with some rounded ‘sweetness’. Chocolate. Spice. Polished walnut

Bodegas Tradición Palo Cortado VORS NV (18 / 20)
35-38 years old. 2,000 bottles a year.
A: Mid amber
N: Fudgy walnut, smoke, cakebread, mahogany and spice
P: Spicy, salty, toasted hazelnut and chocolate. Intense. Long

Bodegas Tradición Oloroso Anada 1975 (18 / 20)
Saca 2017, so a different butt than the bottle I have at home, bought at the bodega in 2011.
A: Mid amber
N: Mellow vanilla-tinged walnut. Creamy fudge and cakebread
P: Off-dry, rounded entry. Polished wood, cream, spice, nuts. Saline. Toasted. Long

 

Bodega Delgado Zuleta

Delgado Zuleta Manzanilla Barbiana NV (15.5 / 20)
Different solera from La Goya.
A: Pale lemon
N: Slight reduction? Smoky, nutty
P: Creamy

Delgado Zuleta Manzanilla La Goya NV (16.5 / 20)
A: Pale lemon
N: Precise, salted almond, olive brine, some apple
P: Super-salty apple and olive. Medium-long

Delgado Zuleta Manzanilla Entúsiastico NV (15 / 20)
2017 release. New release due to market soon. Organic solera, established 5 years ago, with all farming organic and winemaking materials.
A: Mid gold
N: Toasted almond, meat and hay. A little old and less expressive
P: Medium length

Delgado Zuleta Manzanilla La Goya XL Rare En Rama NV (17 / 20)
Extra-aged selections from La Goya solera.
A: Deep gold
N: Creamy camomile. Nutty complexity. Dried apple skin
P: Nutty, salty palate. Elegant and long

Delgado Zuleta Amontillado Monteagvdo NV (16.5 / 20)
A: Pale-medium amber
N: Gentle hazelnut, some creamy camomile. Orange peel
P: Rounded, medium-intensity hazelnut. Salt. Spice

Delgado Zuleta Palo Cortado Monteagvdo NV (16 / 20)
A: Mid amber
N: Almost hint of raisin to caramel, gentle spice and nuts
P: Rich raisin-caramel, cakebread and hazelnut

Delgado Zuleta Amontillado Zuleta VOS Edición Copa Jerez NV (18.5 / 20)
Revived after a period not making it as it was hard to sell. This then won the Copa Jerez, hence the special edition. And well justified!

A: Pale-medium amber
N: Mahogany, hazelnut, spice, old cheese
P: Super-dense, spicy, old cheese, salt, polish, toasted hazelnut. Long

 

Emilio Lustau

Lustau Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda 3 En Rama [barrel sample] (16 / 20)
A: Pale-medium lemon
N: Pungent green apple, then camomile
P: Rich, saline palate, with medium-long length

Lustau Fino del Puerto de Santa Maria 3 En Rama [barrel sample] (15.5 / 20)
A: Pale gold
N: Cheesy. Rancid almonds then putty
P: Celery seed, putty, smoke. Good length

Lustau Fino de Jerez de la Frontera 3 En Rama [barrel sample] (16.5 / 20)
A: Pale gold
N: Fresh almond and apple skin
P: Olives, apple skin, spice, power and salt

Bodegas Rey Fernando de Castilla

Fernando de Castilla Manzanilla Classic NV (15.5 / 20)
4 years in American oak.
A: Pale gold
N: Coconutty! Popcorn. Creamy almond. Apple?
P: Appley almond. Hay. Camomile

Fernando de Castilla Fino En Rama NV (16.5 / 20)
4-5 years in American oak.
A: Mid gold
N: Mellow almond, honey and camomile. Toasty oak. Dried apple
P: Apple skin, salted almonds, yellow apple fruit. Spiced finish

Fernando de Castilla Amontillado Antique NV (17.5 / 20)
8 year old Fino is aged a further 12 years without flor.
A: Pale-medium amber, with some unfiltered haze
N: Old cheese rancio. Polished wood and hazelnut. Orange peel fruit
P: Powerfully extracted. Spice, salt, old cheese, polish, nut. Long

Fernando de Castilla Oloroso Classic NV (16 / 20)
8 years old.
A: Mid-deep amber
N: Raisin, cakebread and chocolate. Toast. Some walnut
P: Rich, spicy, raisin and chocolate, with some walnut

Fernando de Castilla Palo Cortado Antique NV (17.5 / 20)
A: Mid amber
N: Sweet hazelnut, polish, toast, cinnamon and orange peel
P: Intense, chewy, spiced hazelnut. Toast. Polish. Long

 

Bodegas Hidalgo-La Gitana

Hidalgo-La Gitana Manzanilla La Gitana NV (16 / 20)
5 years old.
A: Pale lemon
N: Deep, spicy-nutty, with straw overtones
P: Smoky, nutty, hay, salt. Chalky

Hidalgo-La Gitana Manzanilla La Gitana En Rama NV (17 / 20)
Spring bottling.
A: Mid gold
N: Buttered, toasted nuts. Tangerine!
P: Spice. Toast. Salt

Hidalgo-La Gitana Manzanilla Pasada Pastrana NV (17 / 20)
12 years old.
A: Mid gold
N: Straw, hay, toasted almonds. Cakebread hints
P: Rich, mellow, hay and salted almonds

Hidalgo-La Gitana Manzanilla Aniversario NV (17 / 20)
15 years old. 6-7 casks are separated and given additional static ageing.
A: Deep gold
N: Complex, mixed nuts, some hard cheese and dried camomile
P: Smoky, salty, toasted nuts

 

Viniberia

Almacenista range selected and bottled by Viniberia.

Pedro’s Almacenista Selección Fino NV (17 / 20)
4-5 years old.
A: Pale gold
N: Putty, smoke, nuts, salt
P: Richly nutty, spicy, dense and rich

Bodegas Alonso Manzanilla Madura ‘Velo Flor’ En Rama NV (17.5 / 20)
9 years old, but not Pasada.
A: Deep gold
N: Old cheese, yeast, creamy camomile
P: Powerful, toasty palate. Yeasty lift. Salty. Super-long

Sanchez Romate Hnos Fino Perdido 1 / 15 butts NV (16.5 / 20)
A: Deep gold
N: Slightly cabbage. Blanched almond and old apple skin
P: Toasty-woody, some polish and chocolate spice to nuts and salt. Robust

Sanchez Romate Hnos Amontillado Olvidado 1 / 5 toneles NV (17 / 20)
A: Mid amber, with some haze
N: Toasty wood, orange peel, hazelnut, dried camomile
P: Dense, rich, cakebread and spice. Hazelnut. Toast. Salt. Long

Cayetano del Pino & Cia Palo Cortado Solera NV (17.5 / 20)
20 years old.
A: Pale-mid amber, with some haze
N: Mellow, candied orange peel, subtle fudgy walnut. Spice
P: Spice. Salty hazelnut. Toasty. Long

Cayetano del Pino & Cia Palo Cortado 1 / 10 butts NV (17 / 20)
A: Mid amber, with some haze
N: Candied peel, sweet walnut and delicate spice. Integral
P: Rich, woody-spicy entry. Candied peel. Hazelnut. Long

Cayetano del Pino & Cia Palo Cortado Viejisimo 1 / 5 butts NV (18 / 20)
A: Mid-deep amber, with some haze
N: Cheesy rancio tones, pungent hazelnut, wood polish and spice
P: Rich, rounded, walnut, spice, salt, wood polish. Intense. Long

Salto al Cielo Oloroso ‘Estate Aged’ 1 / 5 butts NV (17.5 / 20)
A: Pale-medium amber
N: Fudgy, toasty walnut
P: Rich, spicy, rounded. Walnut and mahogany. Spiced finish

 

Madeira

 

Pereira d’Oliveira

d’Oliveiras Verdelho Madeira 1994 (16.5 / 20)
A: Mid-deep amber
N: Lovely, fudgy, gently toasted, integral spice and cooked citrus
P: Rich, spicy, medium-deep chocolate and cooked citrus

d’Oliveiras Boal Madeira 1993 (14 / 20)
A: Deep amber-olive
N: Corked type of dirtiness. On second bottle as well. Walnut skin, coffee and smoke
P: Not clean, not nice – a batch TCA or TBA problem?

d’Oliveiras Malvazia Madeira 1990 (16 / 20)
A: Deep amber
N: Smoky – like a smoked Mezcal. Pepper, spice
P: Rich, smoky dark chocolate. Spice. Crisp acidity. Powerful

d’Oliveiras Sercial Madeira 1989 (17 / 20)
A: Mid amber
N: VA touch to rich, nutty caramel-spiced, fudgy citrus
P: Off-dry, wood-toned caramel, spice. Juicy acidity. Long

d’Oliveiras Terrantez Madeira 1988 (17 / 20)
A: Mid amber with rim olive
N: Subtle, fudgy hazelnut, with chocolate and cooked citrus
P: Medium intensity cooked citrus, spice and smoke. Rich and warming. Sweeter style of Terrantez

d’Oliveiras Verdelho Madeira 1988 (17 / 20)
A: Mid-deep amber
N: Marked, toasty-nutty hazelnut entry. Rich, deep caramel, cakebread, spice and nut
P: Juicy, vibrant acidity, smoke, cooked citrus, spice. Long

 

Henriques & Henriques

Henriques & Henriques Sercial Madeira 10 years old (16 / 20)
A: Pale amber
N: Cooked citrus, smoke, toast
P: Dry, smoky, cooked lemon

Henriques & Henriques Verdelho Madeira 15 years old (16.5 / 20)
A: Pale-medium amber
N: Fudgy walnut skins. Toast. Smoke. Citrus
P: Rich, cakebready, then brisk, cooked citrus. Medium-long to long

Henriques & Henriques Boal Madeira 15 years old (16.5 / 20)
A: Medium-deep amber
N: Smoky, curry spice. Savoury. Walnut
P: Intense, smoky-spicy, fudge, caramel and chocolate. Long

Henriques & Henriques Malvasia Madeira 10 years old (15.5 / 20)
A: Mid amber-brown
N: Smoky-stony. Caramel. Cooked citrus
P: Rich. Sweet. Smoky, chocolate

Henriques & Henriques Verdelho Madeira 20 years old (17.5 / 20)
A: Mid amber-olive
N: Spicy-fudgy. Smoke tones with more oak complexity
P: Medium-dry. Spicy, toasty and long

Henriques & Henriques Malvasia Madeira 20 years old (17.5 / 20)
A: Mid amber-brown with olive tinges
N: Old cheese rancio, elegant caramel, hay, chocolate
P: Integrated, elegant sweetness. Vibrant, long, spice and chocolate finish

Henriques & Henriques Terrantez Madeira 20 years old (17.5 / 20)
A: Mid amber
N: Hazelnut, cooked citrus, caramel and hay
P: Harmonious. Elegant and integrated. Salty. Long

 

Port

 

Quinta do Mourão

Bottle under the Porto San Leonardo brand.

Porto San Leonardo 10 Year Old Tawny Port NV (16.5 / 20)
A: Pale-medium tawny
N: Tea, rice and spice. Coconut. Dried red fruit
P: Peppery. Coconut toast. Nut. Chocolate. Creamy finish

Porto San Leonardo 30 Year Old Tawny Port NV (17 / 20)
A: Medium tawny
N: Hazelnut skin. Some spirit, then mellow, toasty oak. Cakebread and old tobacco
P: Fresh fig, tobacco, cakebread, spice. A little warming on the finish

Porto San Leonardo 40 Year Old Tawny Port NV (18 / 20)
A: Medium tawny-brown
N: Walnut skin, cakebread, wood polish and spice
P: Richly sweet – intense. Walnut. Wood polish. Chocolate. Long

Porto San Leonardo 20 Year Old White Port NV (17.5 / 20)
A: Deep amber / medium tawny
N: Toasted hazelnut. Orange peel. Cinnamon and clove oak
P: Nutty, spicy mid-palate and a hazelnut-cream finish

Porto San Leonardo Very Old White Port ‘50 years’ NV (19 / 20)
A: Deep amber with tawny glints
N: Toasted nut and praline. Old cheese. Polish. Dried stone fruit
P: Massive palate weight but creamy, with crystal stone fruit, spice and toasted praline

Porto San Leonardo Very Old White Port ’90 years’ NV (18.5 / 20)
A: Medium amber with an olive rim
N: Dusty, earthy mineral. Polished wood. Walnut skin. Sweet spice emerges over old cheese rancio
P: Powerful intensity praline, smoke, spice, dried apricot and tobacco. Long

 

Symington Family Estates

Graham’s Reserve Port Six Grapes ‘River Quintas’ NV (15.5 / 20)
Blend of 2 riverside quintas – Malvedos and Tua, and 2014 and 2015.
A: Deep ruby
N: Stewed blackberry and blueberry. Some floral tones
P: Sweet, spicy blueberry jam. Floral. Medium-long

Graham’s 20 year old Tawny Port NV (16.5 / 20)
A: Mid-deep tawny
N: Nut. Tobacco. Fresh leather. Orange peel. Cinnamon
P: Rich, but spicy-stony. Tobacco, cinnamon, dried fruit

Graham’s 30 year old Tawny Port NV (17.5 / 20)
A: Mid-deep tawny, with a brick rim
N: Mixed nuts, toasty wood, some oak polish. Old cheese rancio
P: Dark, smoky chocolate. Spice. Harmonious, dried black fruit

Graham’s Single Harvest Tawny Port 1994 (17 / 20)
A: Mid-deep tawny – quite youthful
N: Smoked, with some red pastille fruit. Clove and nut oak
P: Baked red fruit. Spice / cinnamon. Nutty savouriness. Warming finish

Warre’s Otima Single Year Tawny Port 2006 (16.5 / 20)
New project with a 1995 to follow soon, building on regular Otima. £20 / 50cl.
A: Pale-medium tawny
N: Floral and dried fruit. Delicate. Hint of stems. Spiced
P: Fresh, dried red fruit. Spice. Some chew. Hint of fire, but pretty fine. Long. Decent value

Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos Vintage Port 2005 (17.5 / 20)
A: Mid-deep garnet
N: Bright, scented, slightly stewed blackberry. Hint of stems
P: Primary. Jammy. Some slate-schist minerality emerges. Spicy, brooding, dark chocolate, pepper. Fairly-firm, fine tannins. Long

Cockburn’s Vintage Port 2015 (16.5 / 20)
A: Deep black ruby-purple
N: Jammy black and blueberry. Stem touches. Violet and orange
P: Rich, jammy, black and blueberry with mulled wine-like orange spice. Fairly firm, fine tannins. Bright and floral. Fair length and likely early maturing

Quinta do Vesuvio Vintage Port 1995 (17 / 20)
A: Deep garnet
N: Minty. Stewed black fruit. Toast. Nut touches. Floral and stem. Some crushed rock
P: Chocolate. Stewed fruit and tobacco. Firm, fine tannins. Decent length

Dow’s Vintage Port 1985 (17+ / 20)
A: Mid-deep garnet
N: Harmonious black tea, rocky mineral, mellow tobacco and black pepper
P: Fairly dense, dried black fruit, black pepper, tobacco, but still firm, grainy tannins. Long, but spirity

Warre’s Vintage Port 1980 (16- / 20)
A: Deep garnet
N: Crushed rock, beef extract, old leather, balsamic and pot pourri
P: Spicy-smoky. Balsamic, dark chocolate, dried fruit and VA

Graham’s Colheita Tawny Port 1982 (17 / 20)
A: Mid tawny-amber
N: Tobacco. Mellow. Dried fruit. Integral and elegant
P: Integrated, sweet-spicy. Tobacco. Cinnamon. Fiery finish detracts slightly

 

Sogevinus

Kopke 10 year old White Port NV (15.5 / 20)
A: Pale amber
N: Caramel, cooked citrus. Spirit. White flower and nuts
P: Sweet, spicy and chewy. Straightforward

Kopke 20 year old Tawny Port NV (16.5 / 20)
A: Pale-medium tawny
N: Smoky, spicy wood toast
P: Sweet, cooked strawberry and citrus peel. Cakebread. Long

Kopke 30 year old White Port NV (17.5 / 20)
A: Mid-deep amber
N: Beautiful, nutty, integrated and complex
P: Sweet, nutty, cooked citrus, spice. Complex and long

Kopke 40 year old Tawny Port NV (17 / 20)
A: Mid amber-tawny
N: Nutty-smoky
P: Rich, spicy, toasty and long

Kopke Colheita White Port 2008 (16 / 20)
A: Pale-medium amber
N: Minty, spirity, scented white peach
P: Spicy, cakebread, nut and cooked citrus. Fair length

Kopke Colheita Tawny Port 1978 (17.5 / 20)
A: Deep amber-tawny
N: Hazelnut, spice, toast, wood
P: Rich, sweet, fudge, nut, spice. Fresh

Kopke Colheita Tawny Port 1958 (17 / 20)
A: Deep amber, with tawny glints
N: Smoky, toasted walnut. Spice. Dried fruit
P: Rich, spiced, smoky-nutty. Toasty wood. Long

Barros Tawny [barrel sample] NV (18 / 20)
Blend of tawnies from 1950s, 1960s, 1970s, 1980s and 1990s to celebrate the 102nd anniversary of Porto Barros. Served blind.
A: Mid-deep tawny
N: Initially primary – appeared youthful, with floral tones and stems – and also quite cool. On warming, crushed rock, nut, fresh leather and spice, then old tobacco emerged
P: Sweet, with alcohol beautifully integrated. Floral and dried strawberry. Long and balanced

 

Quinta do Noval

Quinta do Noval Extra Dry White Port NV (15 / 20)
14.7 g/L RS. Malvasia, Gouveio. Highest altitude vines and buy grapes in. Designed for easy drinking.
A: Mid gold
N: Primary white flowers and honey
P: Off-dry, floral stone fruit

Quinta do Noval Noval Black Reserve Ruby Port NV (15.5 / 20)
Stainless steel handling. 2-3 year old blend.
A: Deep ruby-purple
N: Primary, blackberry, blueberry and chocolate
P: Supple blackberry and chocolate. Relatively delicate, supple tannins. Moderate length

Quinta do Noval Late Bottled Vintage Port Unfiltered 2012 (16.5 / 20)
A: Deep ruby-black
N: Stems, subtle stewed red and black fruit. Floral touch. Hint of fresh leather and toast
P: Fairly firm, fine tannins. Rich blackberry palate. Smoke

Quinta do Noval Vintage Port 2015 (17.5 / 20)
A: Deep ruby-black, with a thin rim
N: Super-floral and orange peel. Stem. Crushed rock
P: Dense blackberry, violets, stem, orange and rocks. High, but ripe tannins

Quinta do Noval 10 year old Tawny Port NV (15.5 / 20)
A: Mid-deep tawny
N: Spirity red fruit. Stems. Caramel wood
P: Wood spice. Light, but notable tannins. Stewed strawberry fruit

Quinta do Noval 20 year old Tawny Port NV (17 / 20)
A: Mid tawny
N: Toasty, caramel and mixed nuts. Dried fruit
P: Dense, spicy cakebread and stewed red fruit. Smoky. Long

Quinta do Noval 40 year old Tawny Port NV (17.5 / 20)
A: Pale-medium tawny-brown
N: Nutty-toasty. Oak spice. Polished. Cooked citrus
P: Dense citrus fruit and strawberry. Chocolate. Spice

 

Australian Fortified Wines

 

Wine Australia

Pfeiffer Wines Rutherglen Topaque Victoria NV (14.5 / 20)
A: Pale-medium amber
N: Caramel, toffee, green notes?
P: Burnt caramel and medicinal notes. Very sweet

Pfeiffer Wines Rutherglen Muscat Victoria NV (15 / 20)
A: Medium tawny
N: Cooked orange, caramel, toast
P: Bright and fresh. Sweet, with orange spice

Morris of Rutherglen Classic Liqueur Rutherglen Topaque Victoria NV (16 / 20)
A: Medium amber-tawny
N: Treacle toffee, caramel, mellow nut and some tobacco
P: Super-sweet, toffee, caramel spice

Morris of Rutherglen Classic Liqueur Rutherglen Muscat Victoria NV (17 / 20)
A: Deep tawny-brown, with an olive rim
N: Some rancio to toffee and butterscotch
P: Richly sweet, spiced, coffee and toffee

Morris of Rutherglen Old Premium Rare Rutherglen Muscat Victoria NV (17.5 / 20)
A: Mid-deep brown, with tawny glints
N: Fig, caramel, toffee, toast and coffee complexity
P: Massively-sweet!! Rich. Spicy. Toffee, coffee and chocolate

d’Arenberg Vintage Fortified Shiraz McLaren Vale 2008 (16.5 / 20)
A: Deep garnet
N: Oxidative tomato leaf and balsamic VA over black pepper and chocolate, with blackberry fruit
P: Sweet, spicy, dark chocolate and black pepper. Ripe black fruit

Talijancich Wines Julian James Rare Pedro 1974 Solero Swan Valley NV (17.5 / 20)
A: Deep brown with a broad amber rim
N: Chocolate, fig and hay. Fudgy and nutty
P: Intense fig, smoke and coffee-chocolate toffee. Long

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